Our last full day in Costa Rica started well, with Huevos Rancheros for breakfast, overlooking the beach. We then walked to the estuary end of the beach as we hadn’t explored that end of town yet, it didn’t take long to get there, but as we were walking we were approached my street sellers trying to get us to buy everything from ceramics to cocaine, then when we got to the estuary someone tried to sell us a boat trip. So we decided to walk back along the beach, which was much nicer as that part of the beach was almost empty.

The afternoon was spent chilling on our terrace back at the hostel, before heading out again late afternoon to walk along the other end of the beach and catch the sunset. As there were clouds on the horizon the latter part of the sunset was gorgeous, but too dark to photograph without a tripod, so I enjoyed it with Jen, drinking an Imperial beer and reflecting on a great trip.

I’ve only done one post for our time in Santa Teresa, as they would get a bit repetitive. We’ve been getting up, grabbing breakfast, going surfing, relaxing during the warmest part of the day, watching the sunset on the beach, getting dinner and then going to sleep.

Our cabin has proved to be surprisingly cool at night and we haven’t managed to get any more bites. The biggest problem is the noise from the local animals, both wild and domestic, around sunrise but we’ve got used to it. We also have plenty of wildlife joining us on our terrace, including a woodpecker and a gecko in our outdoor bathroom.

The surfing is really good, the water is warm, but the sun is a bit on the bright side and we’ve both got burnt, although I consider sore arms and sunburn to be signs of a good surf session. We’re surfing on proper boards (8’6 NSP minimals), rather than the soft foam boards we’ve used before, I actually prefer them and will be hiring one next time I’m in Croyde. I was stoked that on the first day, when we had a lesson, I managed to catch some green (unbroken) waves, which are a lot more powerful and was my aim of the trip. Our lesson was good as we had one instructor for the two of us and we both made progress as he was able to spend time with me when Jen had caught a wave and vica versa. On our third day surfing we noticed quite a few seabirds circling around, then behind us a school of fish near the surface, the sort of thing that we would normally see on BBC’s Planet Earth was happening 25m behind us. Amazing.

Santa Teresa is one of the three villages that make up the Malpais area, Malpais is in the south, about 2km from our hotel, with Playa el Carmen in the middle and Santa Teresa in the north. The area feels less touristy than the other places we’ve visited, with only a handful of tour operators, on the other hand the restaurants are great, with both local and international cuisine covered. The restaurants don’t look like anything special, they’re usually just an open sided hut, but the food amazing, I’m not sure I’ll ever get fish burritos as good as the ones here.

There’s one main road which runs through the villages, parallel to the coast, but it is main road in the loosest sense of the term. The road isn’t paved, so the choice of transport for the locals are quads/ATVs, which seem to outnumber the 4x4s and cars. But the walk down to Malpais isn’t too bad in the evening and it is good to nip down to the beach to catch the sunset. Sunset seems to be the main part of the day, with seemingly the whole town on the beach either surfing or watching the sun dip below the horizon.

Thanks to the combined efforts of the local cockerels and howler monkeys I was awake at 5:45, knowing that sunrise would be at 5:58 (thanks to the handy Sun Seeker app on my phone) I decided to head out for a walk with the camera, the sunrise from the hotel wasn’t the best, It is always a good thing to be up and about at that time of day for the good light, so knowing the sun would be positioned well, I took a stroll to the main beach in town, which was already fairly busy with fishermen, swimmers and joggers!

When I got back, Jen was just getting up, so we had breakfast at the hotel (Huevos Rancheros – yum!) and decided that we would get the public bus to Cabo Blanco national park. I’d never been on a Central American bus before, but it seems that posted times are guidelines, you can get on or off the bus anywhere on the route and you pay the driver as you get off the bus.

We were dropped off at the end of the drive to the park and after about a 10 minute walk we got to the ranger hut, to be told that the walk to the beach and back would take 5 hours, which we didn’t really fancy, so we opted for the hour loop instead, which actually took us 2 hours with stopping etc.

The first animals we saw were bats hanging in a crevice in a tree, which were annoyingly a bit too dark to photograph. Then trekking through the jungle we saw plenty of butterflies, including the Blue Morpho, which with electric blue colouring and a 15cm wingspan were both beautiful and easy to spot (also impossible to photograph as when they land they fold their wings & blend in with the jungle). The last 1km of the route proved to be the best for wildlife, with a lizard basking on a branch right next to the trails and a family of monkeys in the trees making a lot of noise feeding, then eventually coming down to only a few metres above our heads.

Having seen the monkeys we deemed the trip a success and headed back to the park entrance to catch the bus back to Montezuma, hearing, then seeing 4 Howler Monkeys on the way. The bus was about 20 minutes late, but that didn’t seem to surprise the locals who were also waiting, when we got back into Montezuma we treated ourselves to an ice cream, dropped our bags at the hotel, then went to the beach to relax after a tiring but enjoyable morning.

It was good to get in the sea again, there wasn’t much swell, but enough to body surf a bit, I can’t wait to get on a surf board in Malpais! While we were drying off in the sun I noticed a big splash near the horizon, then again but also noticed the huge tail causing the splash, after a day of searching for wildlife we’d managed to see whales without going anywhere!

Day 6 started much the same as day 5, it amazes me how the weather outside can sound so wild, yet when you open the curtains everything looks calm and beautiful.

Our journey today takes us from the mountains in Monteverde to the sea at Montezuma, again via minibuses and a boat trip, but this time across the Gulf of Nicoya, the sea we could see from our cabin. The first hour of of the drive took us down the other side of Monteverde, again on a gravel track, the landscape on this side was less lush, but equally as beautiful, with lots of spines coming off the mountains catching the morning light creating great texture and patterns, unfortunately we didn’t get to stop for photos this time. The next part of the journey down to the Panamerican highway was on a smooth road, with lots of flowing turns and gradient changes, it would have been perfect in my MX-5. The last section through Punterenas through to the port gave us a view of non touristy Costa Rica, but I guess a port town isn’t really going to show off the best of a country.

Our driver dropped us off over the road from the port, along with two Canadian yoga teachers we were travelling with, gave us tickets, told us to catch the 11:00 boat and that someone called Luis would be waiting for us at the other end. After a bit of stressing, we got on the only boat that was sailing at 11:00, but without any details of where the boat was going, either on the ticket or boat itself, so it was a tense 15 minutes while we wondered of we were on the right boat. The Gulf of Nicoya was calm for our crossing and the various islands gave me plenty of opportunity to take photographs, so the 70 minute crossing flew by, I even saw a family of rays swimming alongside the boat.

Paqueras where the boat docked was worlds away from Punterenas, just a shack and dock where the road met the sea, we could already tell that we were in a much more relaxed part of the country. As promised, Luis was waiting for us when we disembarked and he dropped us of at our hotel in Montezuma an hour later.

Our room at the Amour de Mar is really nice, panelled with dark wood with a sea view and a five minute stroll to town without any hills. (It has wifi and a large lizard living in the tree outside too.)

After a quick scout around town and some lunch at a shack overlooking the beach we went back to the hotel, to relax in their garden, which had hammocks handily positioned within range of the hotel wifi, which has to be the best way to catch up on twitter/blogs.

I managed to miss the sunset, although with the hotel facing south east, it wouldn’t have been ideal. We’ve got a tip for where we can go to see it better tomorrow, or failing that, Malpais is west facing.

After a night of high winds, which sounded like they were doing their hardest to blow our cabin down, we awoke to a lovely view down to the Gulf of Nicoya and beyond.

After breakfast we got a taxi up to the cheese factory in Monteverde, where we had a tour of the factory, sampled some of their cheeses and bought ice cream/milkshake for the long walk back to Santa Elena, which wasn’t too bad as it was mainly downhill. When we got to Santa Elena we spend a lovely few hours chilling out on the terrace of the cafe at the Orchid Gardens (using their wifi to upload my last few blog posts).

As Monteverde is most famous for cloud forests, we spent our afternoon at Salventura in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, we opted to go for the hanging bridges tour, rather than the zip lines, so that we would be able to take everything in, rather than whizzing past, scaring the wildlife. As it happens, we didn’t get to see much wildlife, either we’re just not as good at spotting it as the guides we’ve had, or the creatures have got fed up of all the noisy visitors and moved to a quieter area of the cloud forest. Even though we didn’t see many animals, it was good to see the cloud forest from the canopy, looking up from the ground, you don’t realise quite how many plants grow off the bigger trees, without touching the ground.

We finished off the day with a drink in the Tree House bar and a great meal at Johnny’s Pizzeria, then another long walk back to our cabin, luckily for us the relaxing at the beach part of our trip starts tomorrow!